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  • pony box

    Posted By: roughrider

    i have a fuse box currently in a laundry room cupboard that has been there since we moved in.
    i want to change it to a 30 amp breaker box. is this possible or am i not allowed to do this
    i was told that you are not allowed to put electrical boxes in cupboards or closets. thanks

  • #2
    Posted By: Mr T

    What does this power?

    You are probably going to have to relocate it (and still should if not required).

    You wont find a 30 amp panel. 60 is usually the smallest they go. You can find 30A disconnects though (for 1 220V circuit like a dryer, electric water heater or AC)

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    • #3
      posted by: suemarkp

      And how is this powered (direct from the utility, or from a larger breaker in your main panel).

      I have a house that had its main service panel in a laundry cupboard. This is no longer allowed unless non-combustibles are stored in that cupboard/closet AND you have proper working clearances (no obstructions from floor to ceiling in a 30" width and 36" depth, the panel has to be within this "box" but not necessarily centered in it). I relocated that panel because I did not want that much free open space in that room, and it was an ugly location for a panel.

      I wouldn't bother with a 30A panel -- it is usually easier to run a few new circuits instead of a 30A feeder. I'd go at least 40A (8-3) if not 55A (6-3), as that is easy with Romex cable. But what matters is what you're trying to power and if you need an in-sight disconnect. If it is just one item (e.g. electric water heater), then all you need is a disconnect box or a breaker lock.

      Mark
      Kent, WA

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      • #4
        posted By: roughrider

        Yes, sorry it is a 60 amp box that i would put a 30 amp breaker in for the dryer i really just want rid of the fuses.

        it has power from the main panel that is in the garage to a box located in the laundry room in a cupboard that currently has a 2 30 amp fuses in it. the cupboard is a typical kitchen type cupboard. the room is finished and i do not wish to redo drywall etc. also it is a side split home with a crawlspace and would be very difficult to rewire this circuit

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        • #5
          posted By: chrisb

          This sounds like a disconnect for a dryer. If you can install a plug and receptacle on the dryer then you can eliminate the local disconnect as the plug and receptacle counts for the disconnect.
          Operation Overlord.

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          • #6
            posted by: Navyguy

            I agree Chris. There is no reason to change it... but if you feel the need, this is what I would do...

            Turn the power off at the main panel;

            Disconnect the dryer cable from the fused disconnect and from the dryer;

            Install a 4 11/16 x 4 11/16 box (72171-K) and receptacle on the box with the cable feeding from the panel; and

            Install a molded cord for the dryer and plug in.

            If the receptacle ends up being too far away for the dryer to plug in, simply extend the cable from the panel by installing a second box (72171-K) and cover 72-C-1 and a length of cable (use what was attached to the dryer) and locate the box to a suitable position.

            Be sure to use the proper and approved connectors for the cable and the cord assembly.

            Cheers

            John

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            • #7
              posted by: suemarkp

              Another issue which pertains to what/how you use the existing conductors and bar is: do you have 3 wires or 4 to the dryer and feeding this fuse panel? If you have 3 insulated wires and a bare or woven or single grounding wire, you have a lot of options. If there is no ground, or only 2 wires and a woven neutral/ground, extending this will be a problem.

              You can also effectively abandon this box in place -- just use it as a junction box and feed it with a 30A double pole breaker at the source instead of the 60A that may be there now. Ripping out the buses can give you more room to work and make sure no one uses it for fuses again. But you need to make sure you can adequately cover live conductors with a bolt/screwed cover. If you can just pull open a door and see a bunch of splices, that won't fly in many areas.

              Mark
              Kent, WA

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              • #8
                posted by: roughrider

                thanks for all of the input guys, i will make a decision and let you know, seems i have some choices.

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