Samsung dryer

[Boman]

Model: DV48J7770EP/A2
only heats to like 90F
Disassembled, cleaned blower housing, cabinet, lint screen, etc,.
Replaced all temp controls/safeties in cabinet on blower housing and element housing.
Dual element: Dv97-14486E
Should the element heat one coil at a time?
About the time the top half heats up, the heats appears to cut off.
I tried it disassembled with the door switch bypassed and the belt switch activated along with the thermal cutoff away from the housing, so I could see the element.
Comments!

[jeff sr]

Hi Rick,

I have a manual if you want a copy.

only heats to like 90F

At the dryer exit? Any movement up and down or just goes to 90ºF and stays there?

Should the element heat one coil at a time?

As far as I know both come on for high, only the one for delicate and the other element for PP. Board controls this.

About the time the top half heats up, the heats appears to cut off

Where you able to find what turned the heat off?

jeff.

[jeff sr]

I forgot, did the temp thermister ohm ok?

jeff.

[Boman]

I have the schematic/manual that came with it. Very hard to read. Have to use magnifying glass.
The thermistor seems to be within range.
Did get to 129F once but settled at around 90F and stays there.
It was kind of cool in my shop. Not sure if that would affect the thermistor and the cycling or not.
Am not sure what is not letting it get hotter.
I tried to work the centrifugal switch by hand so I could get a reading on the motor switch terminals. Might have been trying to work it wrong. I was thinking it should slide back and forth in the motor shaft. Maybe I need to see if I can just move the weights in it.
Not sure, but the motor might have a slight hum.
Looks like if the centrifugal switch was not working, it could not maintain the 90F.
I am beginning to wonder if one of the new parts I put on it are faulty.
I might disassemble it again and run it with the thermal cutoff AND the HL pulled away from the housing to see if the element stays in longer.
I may be way off base, but I suspect centrifugal switch, board component, break in element that separates when hot, or faulty new part.

[jeff sr]

Looks like if the centrifugal switch was not working, it could not maintain the 90F

I tend to agree, would get no heat.

It was kind of cool in my shop. Not sure if that would affect the thermistor and the cycling or not.

Cold air being sucked into the dryer would effect it's ability to heat up to normal temps. Testing thermistor should be at normal room temp ( 70ºF or 21ºC ).

Did get to 129F once but settled at around 90F and stays there

Almost sounds like a grounded element?!

jeff.

[jeff sr]

Here is that manual I mentioned about Rick...

http://www.applianceaid.com/pdf/DV48J7700E.pdf

jeff.

[Boman]

Thanks for the manual. I will download it.
It did get up to like 129 once. Actually, I think it was 120.
Tore it apart again today. I find it odd that I get very temporary reading with my ohm meter when I check the black wire in the cutoff that goes to the belt switch relay. The brown wire on that relay goes to the door switch.
I have another dryer with the same model number. But, that same wire gives a temporary reading also. I think whoever had it before I got it thought it needed a motor as it was gone when I got it.
So either that particular wire is okay, which I don’t think so, or that dryer had the same problem this one does.
Being a Samsung, I hadn’t really bothered fixing the one I have. But, I need to learn these electronic. Throwaways, if I stay in this. The ones I learned in are getting scarce.
It did show 140F once today before it fell back to around 90.
Kind of makes me suspect the element. I took the one that in the one I have looking for a break, never found one.
I am concerned about that reading I get from the black wire to ground.

[jeff sr]

I am concerned about that reading I get from the black wire to ground

What black wire? ( diagram is on page 41 ) and why are you ohming to ground?

I find it odd that I get very temporary reading with my ohm meter when I check the black wire in the cutoff that goes to the belt switch relay.

The broken belt switch is in between.

t did get up to like 129 once. Actually, I think it was 120 - It did show 140F once today before it fell back to around 90

Here is the trouble that I have. A thermostat or such can make the dryer get too hot, can make the dryer too cool or make intermittent heat/cooling....but I don't believe that I have seen one just allow 90ºF and stay there!
I have seen a bad thermistor get the dryer too hot, get the dryer too cool, through a fault code but I don't believe that I have seen one just allow 90ºF and stay there!
Intermittent wires, intermittent connections can certainly make the temp just around if it is working or not working, but I don't believe that I have seen one just allow 90ºF and stay there!
Poor air flow, really cold air entering the dryer or grounded element can.

Are you testing on a timed dry cycle and not on an auto or electronic cycle?

jeff sr.

[Boman]

Yes, timed cycle.
Door switch and belt switch seem okay since it does run and heat... some.
I was checking the black wire to see if there was possibly a short somewhere causing a problem. I had checked everything I knew to check.
The ohm reading in that wire to ground might be because I may have still had the door switch bypassed. It has two whites and a yellow I think it was.
Going to bring this thing in the house today and try it. That or warm my shop up more.
Be quicker to just bring it in the house.
Btw, I noticed the Manuel says to not use extension cord. I always use one in my shop for testing dryers and never seemed to be a problem.
Beginning to think the cold air may be the culprit.
I have an older GE that will run and heat in the shop with no problem. It has a cycling stat and not a thermistor. Don’t know if that makes a different. Might very well.

[jeff sr]

I noticed the Manuel says to not use extension cord

They always say that.....for the manufactures protection!

Beginning to think the cold air may be the culprit.
I have an older GE that will run and heat in the shop with no problem. It has a cycling stat and not a thermistor. Don’t know if that makes a different. Might very well.

Would be interesting to experiment for sure!

I was checking the black wire to see if there was possibly a short somewhere causing a problem.

Seems like the black wire goes in directly to the board...for sure you would get reading to neutral/ground. Red wire goes to the motor heat switch.

jeff.

[Boman]

Man, I took this thing in the house and it dried a load like it should.
First put it in time dry the in auto. Just ran in timed dry for a little bit before putting it in auto.
Noticed in timed dry it had an Eco cycle. Now I am wondering if that had something do with it.
The temp never did get and stay where I thought it should but it dried the load in about 45 minutes I think.
Dang electronic things got me kicking my ****.

[jeff sr]

Glad to see it seems to be working now
I saw an Eco-Normal cycle in the manual.

jeff.

[Boman]

Btw, the black wire was going to the belt switch relay and connected to one of the heat relays, if I am not mistaken.
I think I mentioned it going to the belt switch then going to the door switch. I think I looked back and that was wrong.
Got a better pic of the schematic when I took a picture and enlarged it.
Still a little confused why it would be in High heat and Eco lit up too. That and not cycling in the temps I expected.
But, hey! It drying clothes with no problem.

[jeff sr]

But, hey! It drying clothes with no problem.

Great

Still a little confused why it would be in High heat and Eco lit up too

I saw an eco-normal....normal should have high heat.....don't know what they mean by eco.

jeff.