Roper Dryer EL5030VW0 and timer not advancing in auto dry mode (works on timed dry)

[kdeinv]

Hello,

I have a 30 year old dryer that stopped working on the auto dry timer mode. (Dryer kept running). However the timer does work on the timed setting so timer seems OK.

Actions Taken:

Removed all lint that had built up in the dryer to include removing the lint filter and case around the blower motor to remove the lint. Also cleaned the air tube going out from the dryer to the outside. The air flow is now very good.

I have replaced the original resistor that is attached to the timer. Part number 279872 and resistance is 5,000 ohms. (Did not fix issue)

The dryer heating element seems to be cycling correctly and I have tested the continuity of all resistors and tested the heating element to see if it was ok and had not grounded to the case. No problems with the dryer heating properly.

Not sure what else to test. I know in the auto dry mode the 240 volts goes thru the resistor which bumps the voltage down to 110 to 120 to advance the timer when the electric heater cycles off while in the auto dry mode. What else do I need to test? Where does the timer get its power from for the auto dry cycle? I have included a wiring diagram with this question. Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks
Curtis

[jeff sr]

Hi,

Timer sends power to the timer motor directly on timed dry.
Timer sends power through a different contact on auto dry. Auto dry also goes through that resistor and heating element. Make sure the heating element is not shorted to ground ( will still heat ).
That timer contact should be checked TM to RSI.

Cleaning the filter, venting and ducts is a very good idea for this type of an issue and as a general maintenance!

With TM and RSI closed, timer motor will not run until a heat contact opens.

If needed: Timer is coming up as NLA

jeff.

[kdeinv]

Thanks. I reconnected everything with the new resistor and removed and reinstalled all connectors on the timer. I ran the auto dry with fluff no heat and the timer did rotate. I then put it on the high heat permanent press selection and it appears to be working now. (The timer is moving on the auto cycle with heat). Will keep checking on it in case it is an intermittent problem.

Also I checked the air temperature coming out of the dryer with a thermometer. The cycling thermostat is set for 150 degrees but the heating element came on and the air temp right out of the dryer rose to almost 180 degrees and then cycled off and restarted at 130 degrees. The next cycle the air did not get as hot maybe 165 degrees and then cycled off back to 130 or so. I was watching a youtube channel and they stated that the air temperature coming right out of the dryer could be higher than the temp on the thermostat due to the heat having to move thru the metal thermostat before shutting off. The high limit temp thermostat goes to 225 degrees which it has not hit. Should I be concerned with the cycling thermostat with those temperatures or is the variance between the air temperature right out of the dryer and the stated resistor temp OK?

Thanks

[jeff sr]

The temp never reaches the thermostat temp and stays there.....it heats up above, shuts off....cools down and cycles back on.
EG: 140ºF thermostat the heat may go up to 165ºF easily and shut off, cools down to 125ºF and the heat comes back on. We take the heat on temp and heat off temp and add them together and divide by 2 to get an average or mean temp. 165+125 = 290
290 divide by 2 = an average temp of 145.
Clear as mud?

Your first temp we usually ignore as it is usually not accurate but we read and write down the 2, 3, 4th etc as being more accurate.

jeff.

[kdeinv]

Thanks for the information. I will check the temp and average the hi and low readings to see if we are in the ballpark of the 150 degree thermostat.

[jeff sr]

Keep us posted

jeff.

[Boman]

Got to add my two cents here.
I would wash the sensor bars off in case dryer sheets and softener being used has covered them in an invisible film insulating them a little.
On all my dryers, I also check the lint screen for invisible film.
I pour a little water on the lint screen to see if it flows through like it should. If it pools up, I wash and rinse the screen until the water no longer pools up.
If water cannot flow through the lint screen, heat and moisture cannot leave the drum as it should. Basically a blocked exhaust vent.
I can see that sometimes maybe causing a higher temp reading by the time some of the heat does come out if the drum.
In my limited experience, if the dryer takes longer to dry a load than normal, or you run one cycle, and the load is hot but still moist, it is an indication of a blocked screen sometimes.

[jeff sr]

Good tips Rick!

jeff sr.