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Appliance Tip of the Week...
Dryer Basics - Dryer door won't catch properly:
Dryer doors have a latch and catch assembly that often wears out. Many are a plastic device, but some are made of metal. Usually a kit is available with both parts coming as a kit.
Video help for changing a common door latch/catch:
Click here ----->
Dryer basics- Venting problems and power supply:
Most dryer "to long to dry" or "poor/low heat" complaints can be traced back to a bad or poor venting system and sometimes a poorly maintained lint filter. Do not go outside and put your hand under the vent opening and say " it is fine - I feel air coming out"...that is not good enough...take your venting apart, clean it ALL out and make sure the vent hood flapper works and that it is not clogged with lint. Make sure your venting system is short, straight and resistance free as possible. A poor venting system will shorten the life of your dryer, plug up the fan blower and duct work inside your dryer as well. Tip# 4.
Gas dryers need 120 volts to operate the whole dryer. Electric dryers need 240 volts to operate the heating element and 120 volts to operate the timer and motor. You should see 240 volts between the black and red wires, 120 volts between the red and white wires, 120 volts between the black and white wires at the electric dryer main power harness. A blown house fuse ( or breaker ) would stop a gas dryer from working at all. A blown house fuse ( or a 1/2 tripped breaker ) would still allow the electric dryer to run but you would get no heat. Depending on which fuse goes, sometimes the dryer could be dead as well. If you have problems with a fuse letting go or a breaker tripping after the dryer runs for a while, normally the problem is not in the dryer but is in the fuse box.
If needed:
Click here ----->
Dryer Repair and Maintenance Parts
Related Links
Dryer Basics - Dryer door won't catch properly:
Dryer doors have a latch and catch assembly that often wears out. Many are a plastic device, but some are made of metal. Usually a kit is available with both parts coming as a kit.
Video help for changing a common door latch/catch:
Click here ----->
Dryer basics- Venting problems and power supply:
Most dryer "to long to dry" or "poor/low heat" complaints can be traced back to a bad or poor venting system and sometimes a poorly maintained lint filter. Do not go outside and put your hand under the vent opening and say " it is fine - I feel air coming out"...that is not good enough...take your venting apart, clean it ALL out and make sure the vent hood flapper works and that it is not clogged with lint. Make sure your venting system is short, straight and resistance free as possible. A poor venting system will shorten the life of your dryer, plug up the fan blower and duct work inside your dryer as well. Tip# 4.
Gas dryers need 120 volts to operate the whole dryer. Electric dryers need 240 volts to operate the heating element and 120 volts to operate the timer and motor. You should see 240 volts between the black and red wires, 120 volts between the red and white wires, 120 volts between the black and white wires at the electric dryer main power harness. A blown house fuse ( or breaker ) would stop a gas dryer from working at all. A blown house fuse ( or a 1/2 tripped breaker ) would still allow the electric dryer to run but you would get no heat. Depending on which fuse goes, sometimes the dryer could be dead as well. If you have problems with a fuse letting go or a breaker tripping after the dryer runs for a while, normally the problem is not in the dryer but is in the fuse box.
If needed:
Click here ----->
Dryer Repair and Maintenance Parts
Related Links
- Repair kit for Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper dryer; rollers, belt and idler pulley, for 24" wide dryers built 1965 and later
- Dryer Repair Kit, includes drum belt, 4 rollers and idler pulley, For 27" wide dryers built 1965 and later and Thin Twins
- Repair kit for Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper dryer; rollers, belt and idler pulley, for 29" wide Dryers built 1965 and later
- Frigidaire/Kenmore Dryer maintenance kit. The kit includes the rear bearing, front felt seals, belt and idler pulley